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Imagine floating in the water as a fifteen foot wall of water roars towards you. There are two things a human can do. One is to swim to the ocean floor and clinch to the loose sand and hope the power of the wave doesn?¦t suck you over. The other thing to do is start swimming towards the beach. If you have the experience and the courage you will be lifted up and begin to slide down a wall of water...
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The other thing to do is start swimming towards the beach. If you have the experience and the courage you will be lifted up and begin to slide down a wall of water. There is nothing on earth that can be compared to this feeling. As the water massages through your fingers and your toes you feel as one with ocean...
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