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            | Topic: | English | 
        
            | Number of pages / Number of words: | 3 / 800 | 
                
    
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If one starts too far up on the board, then it is more likely to encounter a nose dive, but if one sits too far back on a board, it is impossible to get the power to catch a wave. It's better to practice riding waves that have already broken. The already broken waves are perfect for practice and to get comfortable with your position on the board...
        
        
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It's better to practice riding waves that have already broken. The already broken waves are perfect for practice and to get comfortable with your position on the board.
Paddle back out past the already broken waves. Sit and wait for the perfect wave; as soon as one sees it coming, get prepared; this is the tricky part...
        
        
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            General points of the essay
            
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